Yet step outside the vaults and the picture reverses. Economic growth is sluggish. Private investment is weak. A wave of youth protests recently shook the country, with public anger directed at corruption and a lack of opportunity. The country feels stagnant, even stuck. How can an economy be simultaneously so liquid and so listless?

The man tasked with solving that puzzle, Governor Biswo Poudel, provides a historian’s perspective. Large political upheavals, he suggests, rarely lack an economic core. The recent unrest, driven largely by young Nepalis, is a symptom of “economic anger”. This frustration comes from a yawning gap between rising aspirations and stagnant incomes. Today’s Nepalis are globally aware in a way previous generations were not. Through smartphones and family members working abroad, they constantly compare their lives with those in the Gulf, Europe, Australia and North America. They see higher wages as well as better roads and more functional public services elsewhere. The realisation that Nepal’s purchasing power is low, its skilled workers underpaid and its infrastructure weak fuels a deep-seated national disappointment.

The frustration is amplified by a historical legacy of missed opportunities. As an economic historian, Dr Poudel traces a pattern of underachievement back centuries. In the 19th century, whereas India was establishing universities, Nepal’s ruling Rana dynasty amassed great wealth but spent it on religious donations and patronage rather than national modernisation. 

The main obstacle is not money but mechanism. The state lacks the institutional capacity to deploy the funds that are available. A telling example is the Mid-Hill Highway, a nearly 2,000-km road project on which some Rs400bn have been spent. Progress is glacial with many sections receiving tiny annual budgets that ensure perpetual incompletion. The highway has failed to spawn new, revenue-generating towns along its route. The problem, the governor explains, is a culture of poor management and a lack of accountability. Ministries are not monitored rigorously, and a habit of blaming junior officials or local communities substitutes for ministerial responsibility.

This implementation deficit is compounded by a political system designed for caution rather than action. The checks and balances introduced after the end of the monarchy—including powerful parliamentary committees, courts as well as an active anti-corruption commission—were intended to prevent abuse of power. In reality they have created a system with too many veto points, making large, decisive projects difficult to approve and execute. A single leader can drive change only when endowed with concentrated power, Dr Poudel observes. The current cabinet is seen as clean and competent, offering a test of whether better leadership can overcome systemic inertia.

A similar malaise affects small and medium-sized enterprises, the bedrock of prosperous economies like Germany’s. They struggle to access sensible credit and to grow. Meanwhile very big borrowers accumulate ever more debt, producing a concentration of wealth and a hollowing out of the middle class. This rising inequality feeds the same popular anger that fuelled the September protests. The governor warns that a culture of “evergreening”, rolling over loans to inefficient firms, prevents the creative destruction that allows innovative new companies to emerge.

The recent protests have dealt a severe blow to business confidence. The indiscriminate destruction of private property, including arson attacks on businesses, felt like being struck with a hammer, the governor laments. He distinguishes between the genuine frustration of the young protesters and the criminal opportunism of those who used the chaos to loot and burn. Rebuilding confidence, he argues, calls for the state to reassert the rule of law and make property rights sacred. The fact that some Nepalis feel their assets are safer in India is a damning indictment.